The Michelin Guide unveiled its annual list of the best French restaurants on Monday, praising the “cultural heritage” of a new generation of chefs, while again honoring only a handful of women.
After a long period of complete rest in its gastronomic reputation, France has seen a new industry growing in the last decade, incorporating an international perspective and focusing increasingly on sustainability. Two restaurants received the highest three-star rating at this year’s ceremony held in Tours, in the Loire Valley: Le Gabriel in Paris and La Table du Castellet in southern Provence.
In total, 62 restaurants received at least one star, many participating in the Michelin classification for the first time, including 23 opened less than a year. L’Espadon du Ritz de Paris won a star for its fresh African-inspired cuisine by chef Eugénie Béziat. Showing the continued dominance of men in the industry, Beziat is one of six women to win the star. “I think I’m here to inspire other women, but I don’t have the answer. Everyone has a place in my kitchen as long as they work hard,” he told AFP. On the stage, the director of the Michelin Guide, Gwendal Poullennec, realized: “Few women are at the head of the kitchen while there are more of them in culinary schools and restaurant associations.
“This is the reality we are afraid of,” he said, adding that he is still optimistic about “strong plans aimed at promoting talented girls.” “Age Doesn’t Matter”
La Table du Castellet, which focuses on seafood and vegetables from the region, rose to the top in its first year under Fabien Ferré. At just 35 years old, he is now a three-star chef in France. “Age doesn’t matter. Life is about failure. I got them and I’m being crowned… we’re going to fight,” Ferré told AFP in tears right after receiving the three-star chef’s white.
The Michelin Guide celebrated “well-executed natural dishes” and “fresh, delicate cuisine.” Le Gabriel is a unique restaurant near the Champs-Élysées in Paris inspired by chef Jérôme Banctel Brittany, where dinners start at €278 (RM1,427). Michelin praised the talent of the “alchemist” of Banctel, distinguishing his lobster with binchotan – charcoal used in Japanese cuisine -, almond praline and peach verbena.
“All the years of work without any reward in these times of doubt,” a depressed Banctel told AFP, adding that he expected to hear tears and shouts of joy when he returned to the kitchen on Tuesday morning. There are three hotels with 30 stars in France, 75 with two and 534 with one. Many people have become aware on Monday of their sustainable food in their area. Poullenec told AFP before the ceremony, “French gastronomy has not stopped in the past. “It is very focused on music, regional agricultural fabric. »
Reduction
Michelin announced the announcement two weeks ago, made in advance to avoid any bitter taste during the event. In total, 28 companies lost one star this year, including one three-star establishment.
The annual festival has been a tour across France since the pandemic, with the last two taking place in Strasbourg and Cognac. This reflects the spread of the best hotels of France beyond Paris, where the local hotels are responding to many new stars in recent years.
About 40 small towns and villages have Michelin-starred restaurants in the new edition. Among the great chefs, the Michelin Guide is feared and criticized as much as it is respected: its anonymous reviewers can make or break a reputation, with tremendous influence. and the restaurant’s bottom line.
The Michelin brothers André and Edouard Michelin started their first guide in 1900 to encourage motorists to find hotels in France. It has expanded to 45 locations around the world, and will launch a restaurant guide this year.
